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Seriousness, Consequence and Prudence

Posted on Thursday, 13th Jan 2011Wednesday, 28th Jun 2017 by Vassilis Karidis
ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN MUSIC INSTRUMENTS AND FOLK MUSICIANS IN GREECE (1975), PHOTOGRAPHER UNKNOWN

As with any urban subculture, to really understand what the Mangas is about, one has to dive into his music. Rebetika (the plural of rebetiko) were folk songs of the urban Greek underclass that had been played and sung at least the first half of the 20th century. Starting around the late 20s and through the early 40s, a style came out into full power in the port cities of Greece, especially Pireaus, as part of the culture of Mangas, who circulated through the the taverns and small illegal hashish dens. The music favored by the demimonde were elegant and unpretentious songs which spoke directly to the heart of the listeners, often referring directly to lives of crime, getting stoned, heartbreak, getting arrested, and the search of peace and autonomy outside the mainstream society. Continue reading “Seriousness, Consequence and Prudence” →

Posted in Issue 02Tagged Downloads, Music

A Study of the Mangas

Posted on Monday, 10th Jan 2011Wednesday, 28th Jun 2017 by Kostas Ladopoulos

“A mangas is distinguished by three basic principles: seriousness, consequence and prudence,” Takis Binis, the famed rebetiko musician, has said. The mangas’ street philosophy is based on the calculable relativity of life. He has a good time and takes his pleasure very seriously. He knows when to open his mouth and when to keep it shut. He keeps a low profile – he does not need the limelight. He is “heavy”. He respects others and commands respect in turn. He does not bother and does not like to be bothered. He will not hesitate to speak his mind, nor to take the law into his own hands, when it is the only way. He smokes his hashish in a waterpipe and rolls his tobacco in newspaper. He has a double-edged knife. He dances, alone. He is of the night. Continue reading “A Study of the Mangas” →

Posted in Issue 02Tagged Fashion, Music

Total Control Of Utter Abandon

Posted on Tuesday, 28th Sep 2010Thursday, 23rd Oct 2025 by Vassilis Karidis
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More from Dapper Dan 02: Ari Marcopoulos presents a self-portrait with death mask, Dries Van Noten admits he’s a romantic, Kacper Kazprzyk shoots Rick Owens’ autumn/winter 2010 collection, and neon artist Keith Sonnier lights a wire. There’s also fiction from Richard Wirick, an interview with psych-garage legend Jim Sclavunos, a studio visit with Martino Gamper, wearable Braille from Blind Adam, the first-ever retrospective of the out-of-print, cult magazine Kitsch, and Jackie Nickerson’s bold photographic documentation of African farmer fashion. On the cover: the history of the manges, the Greek hash-den wideboys from the 1930s.

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Dapper Dan 02 is already out in Paris, and will soon be available worldwide at selected newsstands, bookstores and fashion boutiques. Follow this link for more stockist details.

Posted in Issue 02Tagged Cover

Don’t Shoot The Moon

Posted on Tuesday, 21st Sep 2010Monday, 19th Jun 2017 by Vassilis Karidis

The long wait is over. Coming out next week in Paris and London, followed by the rest of Europe and the world; the second issue of Dapper Dan magazine features among others interviews from Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Ari Marcopoulos and Jim Sclavounos. More from our A/W 2010 issue soon.

Posted in Issue 02Tagged Print

Juergen Teller talks to Filep Motwary

Posted on Monday, 30th Aug 2010Thursday, 22nd Jun 2017 by Filep Motwary
Self-portrait as Santa Claus © Juergen Teller

I first met Juergen Teller at a lunch at Café Marly in Paris in 2004. He had recently shot Charlotte Rampling for the new issue of POP magazine, and five minutes later, in walked Miss Rampling herself. I had not met her before, but I did not think to introduce myself: I felt I already knew her, from Teller’s intimate, opulent photographs. That was just before Steidl published his book Louis XV, another collaboration between Teller and Rampling. We met once more to talk flash, flesh and feeling. Continue reading “Juergen Teller talks to Filep Motwary” →

Posted in Issue 01Tagged Fashion, Interviews, Photography

Texas Is The Reason

Posted on Thursday, 5th Aug 2010Tuesday, 20th Jun 2017 by Emily Moore
Photography by Socrates Mitsios

Josh T. Pearson looks a lot like Jesus, if Jesus came from Texas. He is a tall, broad-shouldered, magnificently bearded, twill-and-cowboy-boot-rocking dead ringer for the Son of God. Some years ago, he was the singer in a band called Lift to Experience. They released just one record – The Texas-Jerusalem Crossroads, a terrifying, glorious augury of death, destruction, exodus and apocalypse – and promptly suffered death and destruction of their own before melting back into the Texan desert. Continue reading “Texas Is The Reason” →

Posted in Issue 01Tagged Interviews, Music

Lucas Ossendrijver: L’etranger

Posted on Sunday, 1st Aug 2010Thursday, 23rd Oct 2025 by Angelo Flaccavento

Photography by Vassilis Karidis

Lanvin shows are a joy. Everything this venerable French house – pardon, maison – puts its stamp on, from the set to the music to the catering (not to mention the clothes), seems conceived to convey a sense of happiness, frivolity and legeresse, with an unmistakably French quirkiness. A few seasons ago, it served framboise and cassis macaroons – oh, those hyper-calorific, Technicolorful, Marie Antoinette, cream-filled meringues from paradise that generate the eternal stampede of super-sized tourists outside the Ladurée shops on rues Royale and Bonaparte – that were exactly the same shade of pink and purple as the clothes unleashed on the catwalk a few minutes later. Another season, the theme was the circus: sweets and drinks were served from a striped tent. Yet another season, it was cheesy disco and mirror balls – at 10am! PartiaI as I am to macaroons (indeed, to the French pâtisserie in its entirety), I confess that what gives me the greatest joy at each and every Lanvin show is the finale. Men’s shows are the best. Here you have creative director Alber Elbaz alongside designer Lucas Ossendrijver, together on the catwalk, taking the bow. You should see: they are Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy. Where Elbaz is round, short and clad in a Chaplinesque, all-black ensemble of floppy jacket and rolled-up trousers, Ossendrijver is tall and lanky, all jeans, unpressed shirts and skinny jackets. Both shy and a tad goofy, they’re as far from the designer-as-Hollywood-star à la Tom Ford as can possibly be: a breath of fresh air. “Me and Alber, we are totally complementary,” says the softly-spoken Ossendrijver. “We are both similar and different. Work-wise, we function together perfectly: we talk a lot at each and every step of the collection’s development, but we need not be together all of the time. In fact, we don’t even share a workspace. We can see each other from the window – Alber’s studio is right across the street from mine”. Continue reading “Lucas Ossendrijver: L’etranger” →

Posted in Issue 01Tagged Interviews

Damir Doma talks to Filep Motwary

Posted on Friday, 30th Jul 2010Thursday, 31st May 2012 by Filep Motwary

 

Photography by Vassilis Karidis

Damir Doma is not famous. He refuses to follow trends and avoids seeking attention for its own sake. Unlike most young, tailoring-obsessed menswear designers working today, Doma sculpts a soft, simple, yet imposing silhouette. More than simply making clothes, he is quietly sketching out the shape of a new kind of man. Croatian-born and German-raised, Doma studied fashion in Munich and then Berlin, and graduated in 2004 with honours for best collection. He then moved to Antwerp, where it did not take long for him to attract the attention of Raf Simons, whose work had exerted a profound influence over Doma’s own. Under Simons’ mentorship, Doma was encouraged to develop an intensely personal vision of masculinity; for him, fashion design is a means of exploring the fragile, ephemeral nature of the body. Despite its conceptual origins, Doma’s clothing is beautifully wearable, balancing the solemnity of heavy textiles with a feeling of freedom and fluidity. He showed his first menswear collection in 2007 and is about to launch a womenswear line next month, at Paris Fashion Week. But, he says, his eponymous label has never really aimed for commercial success – it’s actually “a huge art project”. Continue reading “Damir Doma talks to Filep Motwary” →

Posted in Issue 01Tagged Fashion, Interviews

Scatter The Germs Of The Beautiful

Posted on Sunday, 21st Feb 2010Tuesday, 17th Mar 2015 by Vassilis Karidis
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Dapper Dan’s first issue features Josh T. Pearson, among others, interviews by Damir Doma, Lucas Ossendrijver and Juergen Teller. Contributions by Amandine Alessandra, Alexandre Bettler, Jared Buckheister, Lauranne Corneau, Panos Davios, Mara Desipri, Angelo Flaccavento, Laurent Folcher, Dada Ioannides, Yorgos Kakanakis, Christos Kalafatis, Manthos Kaloumenos, Lydia Kamitsis, Peter Lyle, Will McBride, Socrates Mitsios, Emily Moore, Filep Motwary, Mariaflora Papapanagiotou, Jerome Rigaud, Andy Salzer, Frederic Sanchez, Eugene Souleiman, Jesper List Thomsen and Yianni Vassiliou.


Thanks to Genevieve Majari, Nikos Dimitros, Michail Adamis, Ben Palmer and Jonas Lehec.

Posted in Issue 01Tagged Print

The children of the revolution

Posted on Tuesday, 17th Nov 2009Monday, 19th Jun 2017 by Vassilis Karidis
Photographer unknown

Although I’m not too much into symbols or symbolisms, this is some date to publish the first post on Dapper Dan magazine’s blog: Twenty six years after the uprising against the Greek military junta, which ended up with a tank crashing through the gates of the Athens Polytechnic, in the early hours of November 17th, 1973. A day regarded as a heroic act of resistance against the military dictatorship and therefore a symbol of resistance to tyranny.

Well I guess this as an ideological overkill, considering that we are talking about a men’s fashion magazine—but I don’t care.

Everything that inspires us, every thought that motivates us to communicate our ideas and beliefs and to excite creative freedom, is to my mind, legit.

Posted in Issue 01Tagged Print

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