Sarrasine: Junya Watanabe and the Death of the Author

Photography by Vassilis Karidis

“My entire body of work should and can best be perceived by observing all of the garments that are presented each season,” the Japanese designer Junya Watanabe says. One of contemporary fashion’s most inventive minds, Watanabe is also one of the shyest. Pas mal: in the era of the fashion designer as tabloid megastar, such a rigorous focus on the clothes alone is admirable. Not that Watanabe inclines to the polemic; he is simply polite and reserved to the point of cryptic silence. Continue reading

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McKenzie Wark in conversation with Ilias Marmaras

McKenzie Wark is an Australian writer whose many books examine hacking, game theory and, most recently, the Situationists. He teaches at the New School for Social Research and Eugene Lang College in New York. Ilias Marmaras is a media artist based in Athens.

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Helmut Lang talks to Filep Motwary

Dapper Dan has waited two long years for this conversation to take place. The visionary independent designer whose work most definitively embodies the 1990s, Helmut Lang was considered an artist long before he decided to become one. His work as a fashion designer is still relevant, though it’s been almost seven years since he left it to focus on sculpture instead. The designer who refined an era now intrigues us with a new spectrum.

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The Glamour Of The Clandestine

In Dapper Dan’s fifth issue, the media theorist McKenzie Wark dissects the everyday life and glorious times of the Situationists; the visionary designer-turned-artist Helmut Lang talks about his past and future; Eric Isaacson, co-owner of the iconic label Mississippi Records, insists that “it’s still amateur hour round here”; the artist AA Bronson sits down with pirates, Indians, shamans, Nazis, demons and Joseph Beuys; We also visit the engimatic designer Junya Watanabe; the international street-collage gangster Michael Anderson; the charismatic front man Ben Wallers; the quintessential American in Milano, Edward Buchanan; While the writer Angelo Flaccavento muses on presence and absence; and the legendary fashion photographer Hans Feurer talks to Filep Motwary.


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Issue 05 on Press

Photography by Emily Moore

Coming out February 27 in Paris and London, closely followed by the rest of the world, Dapper Dan magazine’s fifth issue features, among others, AA Bronson, Helmut Lang, McKenzie Wark, Ben Wallers and Junya Watanabe. More from our S/S 2012 issue soon.

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Robert Rabensteiner: All Power To The Imagination

Photography by Pierpaolo Ferrari

Wrapped in a paint-splattered coat in his painterly portrait, Robert Rabensteiner is, nevertheless, not a painter. A famously literate, literary fashion editor, he chose to be photographed in no ordinary clothing. The coat belonged to his hero, Balthasar Klossowski de Rola, better known as Balthus, and is tied with a rope in the style of the late Polish artist. (In Irving Penn’s raffish 1948 portrait, Balthus’s own none-too-clean overcoat is belted with a fiercely knotted piece of near-identical twine.) The brocade-upholstered armchair, too, was Balthus’; the photograph was taken in his vast, mythical chalet in Switzerland. Rabensteiner cultivates an aura in which it is difficult to tell where truth ends and myth-making begins. His wardrobes are poems where others’ are scribbles. Continue reading

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